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NOVELIST

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PEOPLE AND PLACES: DAY fourteen

Sant'Aponal Well

It still impresses, the  systems by which medieval Venetians ensured the city's population could live without wondering how they would access a reliable source of fresh water while living a minimum of a hour or two from the nearest onshore source. 100,000 souls. Around 250 Vera Da Pozzo's, or wells. Most squares featured one, the keys for the lid often in the care of the local priest.


We'd spent the morning at the local Scuola Grande di San Rocco, agog at the astonishing paintings, sculptures and decor, and were intent on heading back through San Polo to the Grand Canal along the Calle Del Todeschini. Desperate in equal measure for the opportunity of a seat and a glass or two of chilled white, we turned into the Campo Sant'Aponal, and took our place at a taverna on the edge of the square. 


Refreshed, Joanne kindly took this photo of me beside the (sadly) graffiti-encrusted well that Lucia visits as part of her inspection round of the sestiere. Behind me, looking in need of some serious structural attention, is the facade of the Chiesa Sant'Aponal. It's into this church that Lucia and Malin  wander, intent on engaging with the local priest, but also having one of their increasingly honest conversations about their feelings for each other.


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